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You are in: Fukuoka: Restaurants: Bonita

Yakuin 1-chome, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka
  Vegi. dishes
  O.K. local pk.

Type: Pizza | Intimate  (Qjmp: 5004)

Macho pizza and tacos offer substance over cuteness.

hidden gold 

Review by Bill Fish

There's a secret culinary institute that has been attended by most chefs in Japan at one time or another, called the Institute of Bland Pseudo-Italian Pizza. Graduates are able to make dainty little 1000 yen pizzas frilled up with some carefully laid out basil leaves that are sure to have the OLs oohing, aahing, and oishiiiiiing right on through to the

What we need is a pizza made with care, with passion, with lots of cheese and without the least homage paid to food trends, a man's pizza!
taramisu dessert (made according to the standards of the Monotonously Faddish Italian Dessert Institute, somewhere near the now defunct Nato de Coco Appreciation Society).

thick and chewy 
Such is the success of these institutes that you are virtually guaranteed to be served an identically uninspired pizza no matter where you go in town. These pizzas, in fact, are more successful at attracting 20-something women than even the most successful Kevin Costner lookalike. They are perfectly edible (the pizzas, I mean), but they lack any sort of memorable character (still talking about pizzas here). What they don't do is what a pizza is supposed to do, which is stuff you until all you can do is lie down in front the TV with a contented smile on your face for the next three hours. What we need is a pizza made with care, with passion, with lots of cheese, and without the least homage paid to food trends, a man's pizza! (burp....)

Well, such a pizza can be found tucked away in a little shop in Yakuin called BONITA. We are a bit concerned that the owner might not even care to be written about, since the shop feels very much like you're sitting in his living room, a man's living room. With only a couple of tables and a tiny counter, the room is made even more cluttered by a television, which is usually on, a

When you've left BONITA, you go away with the feeling that the food was made just for you.
wall-full of video tapes and fishing memorabilia, and numerous masculine odds and ends, telescopes, globes and what-not. As the room reflects the owner's personal preferences rather than some ill-considered marketing theme, it is an extremely comfortable place to be. The food, at least the pizza and tacos,equally reflect the owner's personality.
chicken or tuna tacos 
When you've left BONITA, you go away with the feeling that the food was made just for you. The homemade quality of the pizzas (vegetarian, meat, or seafood, and tons of cheese) only remind you how long it's been since you've had a decent pizza in this town. The pizzas are enhanced by side servings of spicy pickled onions and whole peppers, all of which were devoured along with everything else. The chicken tacos are not tacos in any familiar sense, but at 350 yen each, a few of them will make a fantastic meal. None of those packaged attempts at Tex-Mex, but a deliciously marinated chicken served with homemade sauce in a soft taco. The menu is not varied, but the pizza and the chicken tacos alone make this one of the best spots in town for a meal that offers substance over cuteness.

From Yakuin station walk about 700 meters west to the signal before Volk's Restaurant. Turn right and walk to the very next signal. BONITA is on the far, left corner, with a British Flag inexplicably on the door.

10 min from Akasaka st'n on foot.

(Omuta line)
10 min from Yakuin st'n on foot.

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First published Sat Sep 09, 2000
    Updated Mon Jul 23, 2001

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